© 2004-2021 Thomas Jäkel
Wagler’s Viper in Captivity
There are various attributes and statements that
have been used to decribe Wagler's viper in
captivity: docile snake, lethargic, beautiful but
difficult to keep and feed, problems with lung
infection, constipation etc. Wether these potential
problems may arise or not, depends on how one
generally approaches husbandry of this snake.
Wagler’s Viper, with exception of adult females, is
primarily a lizard eater. Those of you who can
experience the speed with which this viper strikes
at geckos (even following the prey if necessary) will
learn to know its true nature.
Clearly, ecological pecularities like preference for
certain food items and other things have to be
considered right from the beginning, if one wishes
to be successful in keeping this snake healthy.
Wagler's viper reacts very sensitive to alterations of
climatic conditions. However, once these are taken
care of properly, it can be kept healthy for many
years. Then, this species may also breed regularly.
Let's go right into the matter and name the three
most important points which have been cited by
others, but are too often ignored by snake keepers:
- Tropidolaemus wagleri requires high humidity,
80% and up. Of course, not constant rain showers
or wet resting places.
- This snake needs to drink water regularly.
Drinking here means not just some drops at the
wall of the container, but providing water as long
as the animal wants to drink (by spraying droplets
on the body and let the snake drink it, or applying
water directly to the mouth using a pipette).
Offering water in a shallow bowl may be accepted
by some animals, but most don't. Therefore, it is
necessary to spend as much time as possible
watering the snakes. This point is neglected by
many keepers. Not doing so will result in digestive
problems, ultimately clogging the intestine by
dehydrated and hardened, undigested matter. In
the worst case, the intestinal tissue can stick to the
fecal pellet. Wagler's viper needs a lot of water to
discharge uric acid effectively. It is a myth that
Wagler's viper cannot digest hairy prey: they just
need enough water to digest it.
- Lots of fresh air, for instance by means of small
electric fans (like the ones used to cool computers)
installed in a large container, or by continuous
operation of an air-pump (as used for the
aquarium) in a small container. Electric fans should
be time-controlled running for a few minutes each
hour.
Negligence of these facts results, sooner or later,
to lung infections which are often due to the
common soil bacterium Pseudomonas aeruginosa.
As we discuss in the 'health' section, this still needs
not be of much concern as it can be cured by
putting an affected animal under the right
environmental conditions. When bacteria reach
other parts of the body, however, antibiotic
treatment may be inevitable to save the animal.
As T. wagleri is a lowland tropical rainforest
inhabitant, temperatures of 28-32° C during the
day are fine, and dropping down to 24-25° C at
night (although this is by no means a rule in all
habitats in the wild). However, keeping the snake
constantly at 23-24°C, which has been
recommended already, does certainly not reflect
the natural situation. This may be suitable for
animals from higher altitudes, however, then one
should know the snake's exact geographic origin.
Trying to 'adapt' Wagler's vipers to any given
condition is not a successful approach. Rather
doing the opposite, fitting conditions to the
particluar snake by especially maintaining a
suitable climate (the two basic points) is of prime
importance. This includes constant checks on
ventilation (and readiness to make immediate
alterations if necessary) and daily observation of
the behavior of the animal. A healthy Wagleri is
usually recognized by an S-shaped resting position,
being highly alert during night to movements or
changes in temperature which are detected with its
heat sensors hidden in the loreal pits.
Spraying the (preferably dense)
vegetation and the snake itself with water is highly
recommended. The best time to do that is in the
late afternoon or evening, shortly before or after
the light has been switched off. Wagler's pit vipers
do not like to become confronted with a beam of
fine water droplets (then they shake their heads, a
sign of distress). They prefer larger drops of water
like in nature. Humidity can be kept high by using
appropriate filling materials for the bottom of a
container that retain water; e.g. porous clay or
coconut shell.
Rainfall stimulates the animals to drink. They
turn their heads towards the body, and start
drinking water droplets attached to it. Do not
expect a Wagleri to move to and drink from a small
container filled with water nearby, they usually
don't do that. It is advisable to replenish water as
long as the animal is drinking. This may be a time-
consuming activity. Be prepared of doing that for
hours, depending on the size of your snake
collection. How often a Wagleri drinks depends on
seasonal factors, its health status, and whether or
not is has to digest prey. Clearly, the snakes need
more water when digesting prey and when they
are ill. A healthy Wagleri may not drink much for
several weeks, just to change that habit instantly,
requiring large amounts of water.
It is a convenient (for the snake keeper) and a
healthy (for the snake) approach to keep a Wagleri
in an aqua-terrarium. The water level should be
quite low, about 5-10 cm, and branches of wood or
stones should provide easily accessible resting
sites. Water temperatures of about 25-30 °C are
fine, and a strong air-pump should agitate the
water providing fresh air. A large water body keeps
humidity at the required high level (controlled by
water temperature and ventilation), reducing the
need of extensive spraying. This type of container
is also advantageous because the snakes can take
a bath which Wagleris actually do occasionally,
especially after shedding skin. Once a snake enters
the water it usually starts defecating. Wagleris that
are kept under such conditions do not show
constipation. This setup also reflects the natural
situation, as the snake is often found close to
streams or in mangroves. Of course, such a setting
requires an easily accessible water container, as
regular changes of water are necessary.
Laboratory-bred mice or rats are the most
convenient food items for feeding snakes. Most
Wagler's vipers accept rodents right away, or can
be adapted to that diet. However, some adult
male and juvenile temple vipers notoriously
reject rodents. If there are no lizards available, it
must be clear that some specimens need regular
forced or assisted-feeding sessions. More on that
in the 'breeding' chapter. This is the point, where
this poisonous snake cannot be recommended to
an inexperienced person. Although lizards or
frogs may be highly accepted by the snakes, wild-
caught prey poses a health threat as it could
contain pathogens. I have experienced losses due
to infections acquired through geckos.
Adult males can be tricked to accept food items
by provoking a bite. Warm up a dead mouse or
rat in front of a light source, and tip the snake
with this on the tail. After some time, the viper
will strike, eventually keeping hold of the prey.
Checking this out requires time. Patience is
necessary. Needless to say that these activities
are only successful during night time, or shortly
after the light has been switched off.
Healthy adult females are usually good rodent
eaters, but tend to become overfed. Offering a
mouse or small rat every 3 or 4 weeks (or even
longer periods) is sufficient, given the highly
sedentary lifestyle of this snake. Birds are also
well accepted, and probably reflect the natural
diet of adult females. Females can keep feces for
months (up tp 6 months may be possible). Then,
certain measures should be taken to stimulate
defecation. Placing the snake into a shallow water
bath for some hours may help (aqua-terraria
provide this opportunity every day). If the snake
still refuses to release feces, a gentle massage
towards the cloaca should do the job.
The size of the container also influences the
constipation problem: Wagleris should be given
ample space, meaning that once these rarely
moving snakes actually become active they like to
wander around which often triggers defecation.
Small containers (e.g. equal to or shorter than
the snake's head-to-tail length) clearly limit this
ability. Males behave differently, as they usually
defecate after each meal.